First was a few nights in Jirisan National Park in Gurye. Gurye is a county that has been officially landmarked as a historic site and tourist zone for it's remaining villages, temples, and traditional products which reflect a much earlier time in Korean history. There are multiple hanok villages in the area, which are clusters of traditional houses and structures that we were told, were as old as 300 years still in their original form. Many hanok were surrounded by or interspersed with more modern buildings that were constructed in the same style to offer tourists accommodations with that old feel but also with modern toilets and other such amenities. Our hotel was more like a lodge just inside the national park, across the street from a wildlife conservation center and sustainability education center. We spent the trip hiking, reading, and enjoying the clean filtered air. A note on the air... it is pollution season here in Korea, when the winds bring over fine yellow dust pollution from China and breathing can actually feel pretty gross. The horizon has this kind of yellow tint, and most people wear masks outdoors. So for obvious reasons, getting out into the woods provided a much nicer place to breath than the city.
Also in Jirisan National Park is one of the more famous active temples in Korea. It is quite old, and special in that it offers templestays to guests wanting to do some self reflection and enjoy the company of the monks. More on that, though, when I actually get the chance to participate in a templestay. Even without an overnight stay, though, the temple was a great place to spend the evening. The temple was decorated with lanterns for Buddha's birthday, and we got to experience the ringing of the evening bells and drums. The location, nestled in the mountains, meant that the sound produced by those evening bells reverberated in a pretty awe inspiring way.
It was lovely to hear and to watch, and we loved seeing the monks check their watches in order to time the ringing properly. Amusingly, as the bell ringing time was nearing it's end, the second monk present checked his watch so frequently that he actually looked impatient, like he couldn't wait for the chore to end. I'm sure it was something else, like trying to make sure the last ring happened at a precise moment, but it added some comic relief to an otherwise very solemn event. Other things, like the obsessive watch checking, that seemed out of place in this very old, very formal temple, were the vending machines. You could be looking one direction revering the murals and scenery, and wheel around to see a coffee machine and tourist information center. I'd love to have been able to ask about how temples remain active in this day and age, and pry a bit into the workings of life there, but it just didn't seem like the space for those questions.
Needless to say, we had a very relaxing, very Korean mini-vacation, which though short was almost immediately followed by Childrens Day. Now, of course, we don't have our own children so we instead celebrated this long weekend as an early birthday for Jamie. We took the opportunity to head out to Busan for a few nights to take advantage of some of the things we can't get in Goheung, like western food, game stores, and well, young people. I won't go into too many details, since mostly I enjoy using this blog to tell you about the cultural differences, not about our day to day dramas. But just know that as an American in Korea, there is something really special about the ability to get TexMex and margaritas for your birthday. It was also lovely to sit on the beach at night, since the weather has warmed enough for nights to be just a bit cool, but not cold.
That's all for now, but I hope this makes up for missing a few weeks there. Have a great week everybody, and wish J a happy birthday tomorrow if you get the chance!
Cheers!
-K
